Songket

Lore & Background

Songket weaving traditions are historically associated with the Srivijaya Empire, a wealthy maritime trading empire based on Sumatra from the 7th to 13th centuries. According to Palembang folk tradition, Chinese traders brought silk threads, while Indian or Middle Eastern traders brought gold threads, leading to the creation of songket. Archaeological evidence from the Bumiayu temple complex in South Sumatra shows songket motifs on statues dating between the 8th and 9th centuries CE, indicating its use by nobility. The term 'songket' derives from the Malay word 'sungkít', meaning 'to hook', referring to the method of hooking and picking threads to insert metallic threads. Another theory suggests it comes from a combination of 'tusuk' (prick) and 'cukit' (pick).

Reader's Guide

Songket holds significant cultural and historical importance in Maritime Southeast Asia, particularly in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. Its association with the Srivijaya Empire underscores its role as a symbol of luxury and social status, historically reserved for nobility and royalty. The fabric's production, involving real gold or silver threads, required skill and resources, making it a marker of wealth. Songket traditions have been formally recognized as intangible cultural heritage by both the Indonesian Ministry of Education and Culture (five traditions between 2013 and 2019) and the Malaysian Ministry of Tourism, Arts, and Culture (2012). In 2021, UNESCO recognized songket as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity from Malaysia. The weaving technique, traditionally done by women but now also by men, continues as a cottage industry in regions such as Palembang, Pandai Sikek, Silungkang, and others in Indonesia, as well as in Malaysia and Brunei. The fabric's motifs, such as the lepus and bunga bintang patterns, show continuity from the 9th century to modern designs, reflecting a deep historical legacy.

Did You Know?

• Songket has been worn by the people of South Sumatra since the 8th century CE, based on statues at the Bumiayu temple complex.
• The term 'songket' derives from the Malay word 'sungkít', meaning 'to hook', referring to the weaving method.
• In 2021, UNESCO recognized songket as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity from Malaysia.
• Five songket traditions in Indonesia have been recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Indonesian Ministry of Education and Culture between 2013 and 2019.